Sunday, December 6, 2009

Frets

I've done fretwork before. But I've always hammered the frets in, checked them for levelness, then leveled with a 14" file, and then recrowned them.

This time around I've got a different idea in mind. This time, what I plan to do with high problem frets, is take them out and replace them. I want to get the frets seated evenly so that they're really close to each other in height, as close as I can get them, before I begin filing and recrowning.





























Here's a better detail of the dot inlays.

Completing the Rim

I didn't realize just how bad the webcam pics were until I looked at them again after they had been uploaded. For these pics I'm switching to our phone.

I glued the neck block to the rim last night. On my first guitar, I used a Martin neck block. It was simple to set up. I just made the top of the neck block flush with the top of the rim. I like this neck block better. It's older in style. But it required a little more know-how. I placed it so that when the neck tenon is placed into it, the fingerboard will be 3/16" above the top. This will give some room for later on. When I fit the dovetail, the neck tenon will sink down into the neck block mortise, until the fingerboard is flush with the top.






























After the block was clamped in place, I got started on kerfed lining. I use clothespins reinforced with rubberbands as clamps.














Here's the completed rim job. I used a battery powered drill and a chisel to make that v-slot around the neck block mortise.

































And here's the neck's dovetail tenon resting in the body's mortise slot.

































Now I just need to fit the top and back to the sides. I'll sand the rim using 2x2's that have the radii of the top and back cut into them. Then I need to shape the bracing so that it is all shorter than the binding at the ends, so that the binding will cover it all up. After that, I'll cut notches in the rim to accept the ends of the bracing. I really believe that taking the time to get a nice and tight, yet stress-free fit of all these parts really helps out the sound quite a bit. It's the kind of thing that doesn't happen on most factory-made guitars.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Fingerboard Inlays

Still no word yet from Canon about how our digital camera is doing. We sent it in to see if they'd fix it as it was still under warranty.

The webcam just can't show details. But here is the fingerboard. I installed dot inlays on it tonight. They are 4mm mother of pearl dots. I like to use gorilla super glue (that's the super glue, not plain gorilla glue) for this sorta stuff because it is thick and dries slowly. I just wish this was a clear picture, so that you could see how nice it looks.
















I got a replacement neck block in the mail today so I'll see if I can put the rim together this weekend.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Neck

So my digital camera is kaput but here are some shots using a webcam.

John Hall sent me a neck. It's dovetail, mahogany, 24.9 scale, 14 frets to body, 1 11/16" nut width, with a volute, and very Martin-ish.











































I glued a rosewood veneer faceplate on two nights ago.














The fingerboard hasn't been glued on yet, but here's what it looks like when it's attached.














Another shot of the headstock.














And here's the nut blank fitted to go in the slot.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Top bracing

The top bracing has been glued on and just needs to be shaped.














For the brace placement I relied heavily on this picture of a
1933 00-18.